{"id":707,"date":"2026-08-11T23:08:41","date_gmt":"2026-08-11T23:08:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cityflowjournal.com\/?p=707"},"modified":"2026-08-11T23:08:41","modified_gmt":"2026-08-11T23:08:41","slug":"why-fashion-falls-for-fascists","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cityflowjournal.com\/?p=707","title":{"rendered":"Why fashion falls for fascists"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Oscar Wilde commanded that \u201cone should either be a work of art or wear a work of art.\u201d What happens, though, when the shirt is sublime but the soul is twisted? That Dorian Gray-like question comes to mind in the wake of the decision by Cond\u00e9 Nast\u2019s global chief content officer Anna Wintour and Metropolitan Museum costume curator Andrew Bolton to devote the 2027 Met Gala to John Galliano, a designer hailed as a visionary who has also spewed baroque bigotry.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Call it \u201cThe Devil Wears Galliano.\u201d Wintour <\/span>reckons<\/span> that the British designer\u2019s work \u201ccombines erudition and creativity, darkness and light, the past, the present, the future all smashing together in a brilliant way.\u201d Less brilliant was Galliano\u2019s tirade in a Paris cafe in 2011, when cameras captured him screaming at a woman, \u201cI love Hitler. People like you would be dead. Your mother, your forefathers, would all be fucking gassed.\u201d Witnesses reported that he also called the woman a \u201cfucking ugly Jewish bitch.\u201d He claims to have no memory of the incident due to substance abuse.<\/span><\/p>\n

Wintour insists that Galliano \u201cisn\u2019t defined by a moment\u201d and says that \u201cJohn Galliano: Horizons\u201d won\u2019t \u201cshy away from any of the darkness in John\u2019s past. It\u2019s part of what has shaped him. The show will take in the full arc of his career and grapple with all of it.\u201d\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Wintour is garlanding Galliano with a rare honor. Only two other living designers have been feted by the Met with solo shows: Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 and Rei Kawakubo in 2017.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Wintour has met with Jewish <\/span>machers <\/span><\/i>such as Anti-Defamation League CEO Jonathan Greenblatt and Rabbi Rick Jacobs about the choice of Galliano, who gave it their blessing, citing Galliano\u2019s apologies and contrition. In the wake of the dark incident in the City of Light, he was fired as director of Dior and criminally convicted in a French court. However, he was quickly tapped by esoteric French label Maison Martin Margiela, where he completed a highly successful decade-long run in 2024. He has now taken the reins at mass-market retailer Zara, where he will \u201cre-author\u201d designs from the brand\u2019s archives.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Galliano\u2019s genius glowed early. A school collection inspired by post-revolutionary France, \u201c<\/span>Les Incroyables<\/span><\/i>,\u201d was snapped up by London\u2019s legendary Browns boutique. A 1994 collection inspired by the murdered Romanovs, \u201cPrincess Lucretia,\u201d was hailed by Diane von Furstenberg as a \u201cwatershed moment in modern fashion history.\u201d Galliano\u2019s bias-cut gowns ruled red carpets in the 1990s and his runways reached for historical phantasmagoria. No Brit had ever led a French couture house until he took over Givenchy in 1995. A year later, he was at Dior, giving the haute a surrealist flair.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Take the Dior Saddle Bag, introduced in 1999 by Dior under Galliano\u2019s direction. The asymmetrical item was popularized by Sarah Jessica Parker\u2019s Carrie Bradshaw on <\/span>Sex and the City<\/span><\/i>. It simultaneously conjures posh stables; a low-slung, hip-hop aesthetic; and the melting drip of one of Salvador Dal\u00ed\u2019s clocks. Knockoffs became a Canal Street staple, and Wintour\u2019s <\/span>Vogue<\/span><\/i> christened it a \u201cpop culture phenomenon.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Galliano\u2019s sins, however, are hardly limited to that one outburst in Paris. His biographer, Dana Thomas, <\/span>contends<\/span> that honoring him is a \u201cterrible idea\u201d and that \u201chis infamous antisemitic rants were not an aberration.\u201d And beyond the judgment of Galliano\u2019s character \u2014 by all accounts, it\u2019s troubled \u2014\u00a0 lies a more difficult reckoning with fashion\u2019s fascination with cruelty and fanaticism, which all too often has lain behind the glittering surfaces.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Eighty years before Galliano\u2019s outburst, also in Paris, fashion and fascism were sewn together in Coco Chanel\u2019s atelier. Chanel was just one of many auteurs and geniuses to collaborate with the Nazis and freeze out Jews \u2014 Martin Heidegger was a member of the Nazi Party until the end, and failed to protect his mentor Edmund Husserl from being fired under anti-Jewish laws. During the war, the French designer \u2014 inventor of the little black dress and Chanel No. 5, the best-selling perfume of all time \u2014 had a Nazi lover and was in the formal employ of German military intelligence.<\/span> Chanel also appealed to Aryanization laws to attempt to wrest control of her perfume company from two Jewish partners, proving that allegiance to beauty provides no inoculation against brutality. She received her own Met show in 2005.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Even worse was Hugo Boss, a German citizen and clothing manufacturer who joined the Nazi Party in 1931 and whose company mass-produced the black uniforms of the SS, the brown uniforms of the SA, and the mixed brown and black ones for the Hitler Youth \u2014 made in part by forced labor. The company<\/span> apologized<\/span> in 2011 for using the labor of 140 French and 40 Polish prisoners.<\/span> Boss\u2019s imprisoned<\/span> workers would have sewn the <\/span>Totenkopf <\/span><\/i>or \u201cDeath\u2019s Head\u201d<\/span> symbol onto the garments intended for concentration camp guards, though Boss was not responsible for the design. After the war he was found to have been an \u201cactivist, supporter and beneficiary\u201d of the Third Reich. On appeal, though, he was ruled to have been merely a \u201cfellow traveler\u201d of the regime.<\/span> <\/p>\n

In a 1975 essay, \u201c<\/span>Fascinating Fascism<\/span>,\u201d Susan Sontag coined the phrase \u201cbeauty freak\u201d to describe Hitler\u2019s favorite director, Leni Riefenstahl. Sontag means it as something of a compliment \u2014 that in movies like <\/span>Triumph of the Will<\/span><\/i> and <\/span>Olympia<\/span><\/i>, Riefenstahl was acting not as a \u201chorrid propagandist\u201d but instead as an almost autistic auteur in search of the perfect shot. Fascist art, Sontag writes, \u201cglorifies surrender; it exalts mindlessness: it glamorizes death.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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Sontag reasoned that \u201cmost people who are turned on by SS uniforms are not signifying approval of what the Nazis did,\u201d as if the fashion could be detached from the fascism. In truth, Riefenstahl was hardly ambiguous. In 1937, she gushed that \u201cHitler is the greatest man who ever lived. He truly is without fault, so simple and at the same time possessed of masculine strength.\u201d One of her films used extras sourced from a concentration camp. They were sent to Auschwitz when the movie wrapped.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

A half-century ago, Sontag predicted that a \u201crevival of Nazi art, following the revivals of Art Nouveau, Pre-Raphaelite painting, and Art Deco, is most unlikely. The painting and sculpture are not just sententious; they are astonishingly meager as art. But precisely these qualities invite people to look at Nazi art with knowing and sniggering detachment, as a form of pop art.\u201d A harder question is presented when the art is rich but the artist is rancid.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Galliano, then, appears to belong to the tribe of beauty freaks and antisemitic art monsters that includes Riefenstahl, Chanel, and Kanye West, not to mention composer Richard Wagner, poet Ezra Pound, and Voltaire\u00a0 \u2014 and, some might say, Sontag herself, who in an infamous piece appeared to justify the 9\/11 attacks as \u201can attack on the world\u2019s self-proclaimed superpower, undertaken as a consequence of specific American alliances and actions.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

The raising up of Galliano comes three years after Karl Lagerfeld, who once declared that \u201cno one wants to see curvy women,\u201d was honored at the 2023 Gala. Fashion, it seems, has few untainted heroes to choose from. That honor, though, was posthumous. It also came before the Costume Institute took over prime real estate at the Met. In May, it ascended from the basement to the Cond\u00e9 M. Nast Galleries, adjacent to the Great Hall \u2014 the former location of the museum gift shop.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In honoring Galliano, Wintour is taking something of a gamble with an event that has become a gilded goose. The Costume Institute has become crucial to the Met\u2019s bottom line. Last year\u2019s Gala brought in $31 million. The museum\u2019s most popular show in history was the Costume Institute\u2019s \u201cHeavenly Bodies,\u201d in 2018, which was seen by 1.7 million people. That edged out 1978\u2019s \u201cTreasures of Tutankhamun,\u201d which was viewed by 1.4 million visitors.<\/span><\/p>\n

The Met <\/span>contends<\/span> that \u201crather than presenting a conventional narrative of disgrace and redemption, the gallery will examine how memory, experience, cultural values, and historical circumstances continually reshape the reception of a designer\u2019s work.\u201d It could be, though, that the old parabola of grace and redemption, as hoary as it is, remains the best shape to map the choice to honor Galliano, who was raised in a devout Catholic family and whose work often bears the imprint of the Church\u2019s couture.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The Met originally intended to honor Galliano in 2024, but postponed the plan in the wake of the Hamas massacre on Oct. 7, 2023. Those sensitivities appear to have dulled in the years since, even as antisemitism against Jews in New York continues to rise. The New York Police Department <\/span>reports<\/span> that antisemitic incidents increased by more than 8% this year, and that <\/span>more than half of all hate crimes<\/span> are perpetrated against Jews, who constitute just 10% of the population. Antisemitism is a fashion that is very much <\/span>back in style<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In a 2023 documentary, <\/span>John Galliano: High & Low<\/span><\/i>, Wintour explains that \u201cit isn\u2019t often that you meet a great designer. But when you saw what John was doing, you realized that he was one of them.\u201d Perhaps it is as simple as that \u2014 the rules are different for the great and glittering, even if their sins and prejudices are no less ugly than ours. Or perhaps a line ought to be drawn when it comes to the world\u2019s oldest hatred.<\/span><\/p>\n

Sontag concluded that \u201cRiefenstahl\u2019s current de-Nazification and vindication as indomitable priestess of the beautiful \u2014 as a filmmaker and, now, as a photographer \u2014 do not augur well for the keenness of current abilities to detect the fascist longings in our midst.\u201d Wintour, a lioness in winter, is set to test again if the beautiful ought to bleach the baleful.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Oscar Wilde commanded that \u201cone should either be a work of art or wear a work of art.\u201d What happens, though, when the shirt is sublime but the soul is twisted? That Dorian Gray-like question comes to mind in the wake of the decision by Cond\u00e9 Nast\u2019s global chief content officer Anna Wintour and Metropolitan […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":706,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[209],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-707","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-jackboots"],"yoast_head":"\nWhy fashion falls for fascists - \u0421ity Flow Journal<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cityflowjournal.com\/?p=707\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Why fashion falls for fascists - \u0421ity Flow Journal\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Oscar Wilde commanded that \u201cone should either be a work of art or wear a work of art.\u201d What happens, though, when the shirt is sublime but the soul is twisted? 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